Foto Journee Takes the Northern Lights – The Itinerary (Part 2)

Commence Operation Team No Sleep

After returning to Fairbanks for lunch, I was picked up in the afternoon for a scenic two-hour ride, traveling 60 miles northeast to Chena Hot Springs Resort. Tucked away in the remote Alaskan wilderness, this century-old rustic lodge is a family-friendly destination offering year-round activities for both summer and winter travelers.

The resort’s amenities include a natural hot spring, heated indoor pool and hot tubs, an ice museum, and a massage center. A casual on-site restaurant serves fresh produce grown in the resort’s geothermal greenhouse, and there’s also a 24-hour activity lounge where guests can relax and socialize. For convenience, round-trip shuttle service is available from Fairbanks and the airport for an additional fee.

While at the resort, I decided to truly treat myself: touring the geothermal-powered greenhouse, visiting the Aurora Ice Museum, soaking in the natural hot springs, and heading up to Charlie Dome for aurora viewing.

Chena Fresh Greenhouses

As an environmentalist, I was especially excited to learn that Chena Hot Springs Resort is deeply committed to sustainability and renewable energy. I eagerly joined their complimentary tour of the geothermal greenhouse to see firsthand how renewable energy is used to grow produce—like lettuce and tomatoes—year-round in the harsh Alaskan climate. This fresh produce is featured in dishes such as the Chena Salad, served in the on-site restaurant.

Aurora Ice Museum

After the greenhouse tour, I made my way to the Aurora Ice Museum. Completed in 2005 and kept at a frosty 25°F, the museum is constructed from over 1,000 tons of ice and snow—all harvested on the property. Upon entering, you first step into the workshop where the ice sculptures are created. There’s also an ice-glass carving station used to hand-craft the glasses for the resort’s signature apple martinis (yes, they’re delicious!).

Beyond the workshop, the museum opens into a magical frozen world featuring a jousting sculpture, an ice chessboard, an ice chapel (where couples can actually get married), an ice hotel (available for overnight stays at $600 per night), and—my favorite—an ICE BAR. The tour is family-friendly, but the ice bar is reserved for guests 21 and over. After finishing your apple martini, Chena tradition calls for stepping outside, making a wish, and smashing your ice glass on the ground.

Healing Waters

One of my most memorable experiences at Chena Hot Springs Resort was soaking in the natural hot springs. But I’ll be honest—I had to have a serious conversation with myself first. Like any pool or hot spring, you’re required to shower and wear a bathing suit. No problem. I changed, put on my water shoes, showered, and headed down the hallway toward the springs.

Then reality hit.

It was –19°F outside.

Yes—minus nineteen degrees. I was freezing and hadn’t even stepped outdoors yet.

The conversation that followed (out loud, mind you) went something like this:

Me: Girl, are you crazy? It is freezing out there.
Also Me: This is an experience you’ll never forget.
Me: Seriously?! Am I really doing this?
Final Me: You paid your money—NOW WALK!

I’m sure anyone nearby thought I had lost my mind, but onward I went. I hung up my towel, carefully walked down the ramp, and slowly eased into the water. As my feet submerged, the 165°F geothermal water began to warm my legs. Step by step, my body relaxed. I’ve enjoyed outdoor hot tubs in winter before, but never in temperatures below zero. This was on another level.

The tension melted away. The pain in my hip, leg, and foot eased. I felt completely at peace. #zen

I chatted with a few locals while soaking, one of whom kept saying, “Make it spiritual!” And I did. I stayed present, relaxed, and remembered to hydrate. Then the funniest thing happened—I touched my hair and my fingers stuck slightly. Why? Because my hair had literally frozen. No exaggeration. (Check the photo!)

Laughing, I decided it was time to dry off. Once dressed, I headed to the restaurant for dinner.

Charlie Dome

And then came the moment I had traveled all this way for—one I was both excited and anxious about. My main reason for visiting Alaska in winter was to see the northern lights. Everything else was a bonus. I wanted to look up and watch them dance across the sky with my own eyes.

To see the aurora, you need two things: darkness and clear skies. Darkness wasn’t an issue—Alaska in winter offers only about five hours of daylight. But the weather? That was another story. Snowfall and heavy clouds filled the sky all day. I feared I’d miss the show entirely.

By evening, there was nothing I could do but hope. The last shuttle back to Fairbanks had already left, and I was scheduled to return on the 5 a.m. ride. I called everyone I knew and told everyone I saw to pray that the skies would open.

At 9:30 p.m., we gathered at the activity center and boarded the SUSV (pronounced sus-vee) for the two-mile climb up Charlie Dome—one of the best aurora-viewing locations in Alaska. Once there, we settled into one of two Mongolian-style yurts, turned up the propane heat, made hot drinks, and waited.

The plan was to stay for four hours. Our hosts intended to play a documentary, but thank goodness for the honesty of children—a sweet four-year-old asked, “Is there anything else we can watch?” Cue laughter, and suddenly Home Alone and Home Alone 2 were on.

As we waited, we closely watched the Aurora Forecast monitors from the University of Alaska Fairbanks. Shortly after 1 a.m., Christmas morning, something magical happened. Faint green lights began to glow through the clouds. We watched in awe, filming, photographing, and simply taking it all in.

Though hazy, it was beautiful. I whispered, “Lord, if this is all I get, thank You.” For 30 minutes, I stood in pure wonder, grateful beyond words.

All good things must come to an end. Around 2 a.m., we boarded the SUSV once more and made our way back down the mountain to Chena Hot Springs Resort—hearts full, memories made.